After a great first day at Barrow, the fun continued on the 8th. Yes, there were Ross’s Gulls, about the same number as the day before and we spotted one sitting on the ice with Glaucous Gulls, but they weren’t the big story of the day. First, there was a fly-by Black Guillemot and two Arctic Foxes circling a heavily marked Snowy Owl (the foxes eventually lost interest and moved on). Then it became apparent that there was a big movement of large gulls heading west from the Beaufort Sea. At first, we thought it was only gulls gathering for scraps of the bowhead whales harvested the day before, the first of the fall hunting season. But as gulls continued to stream overhead and continue westward along the Chukchi coast, some at high altitudes, some flying low along the shore and stopping occasionally, we realized this was something bigger. Most were Glaucous Gulls, but among them were a few Thayer’s Gulls.
Adult Thayer's Gull (immature Glaucous Gull in back)
Immature Thayer's Gull
After lunch, we returned to where the gulls were gathering for whale scraps. While scanning through the flock for something different, hoping for an Ivory Gull, we noticed that other birders (Steve Heinl, Jerry Koerner, and Andy Piston) were waving at us from further down the road. Steve had found a gull that at first didn’t impress me. Sitting on the water, it didn’t look like anything too out of the ordinary for Barrow. But then it flew, and it was clearly a big gull. I asked Steve what they were thinking it was. He was reluctant to answer, so I said, “You’re thinking it’s a Great Black-backed, aren’t you?” I should mention that Steve was reluctant because there has been only one record of Great Black-backed Gull, a species normally found in the North Atlantic and Great Lakes, in Alaska.
The big guy -- Click on the photo to see a gallery of more photos
It isn’t a “classic” Great Black-backed Gull, for example, the greater secondary coverts on the upperwing are darker than those of a typical Great Black-backed. It’s also on the small side for a Great Black-backed — it was the same size as the large Glaucous Gulls — but not outside the normal range. Its size and somewhat rounded head and smaller bill indicates that it’s likely a female. There’s been some behind-the-scenes discussion with gull experts, and the consensus is that it is a Great Black-backed Gull.
Great Black-backed Gull with Thayer's Gull
After thoroughly photographing this gull, we all continued on our separate ways, with our group heading northeast along the coast. Steve’s group went in the opposite direction and looked through the gulls feeding on the whales. As we turned around, we saw them coming back towards us. Andy was driving and let us know that they had just found an Ivory Gull. We got back there ASAP.
There was a snow squall moving through, so it was a little dark, and as you can see, the gull almost disappears in these conditions. Here are a few more shots:
Ivory Gull and Glaucous Gull
Ivory Gull on right side of Glaucous Gull flock
All those cars in the background are line up because another bowhead whale was being hauled onto shore. The Ivory Gull was a little jumpy and moving around a lot, probably due to all of the activity associated with the whale.
On the 9th, the final full day of the tour, the Great Black-backed was still around but the Ivory Gull had moved on. Ross’s Gulls were still moving through, surprisingly moving east-to-west like the previous day (at this date, I would expect them to still be migrating in the opposite direction), but not in big numbers and many were far offshore. We also watched another fox-and-owl dance, probably featuring the same individuals as the previous day and with the same outcome. Overall, it felt like a quiet day until later in the afternoon. There were many King and Common Eiders around every day, but we had not yet seen a Spectacled Eider, so that became our focus. After looking at many eiders, we finally spotted a Spectacled among a flock of Kings at the end of the road along the coast. It was difficult at first, as it was far away and would only pop up momentarily from behind the waves, and then a heavy snow squall moved in, making it impossible to see the flock. Finally it cleared and everyone got on it, and after a wait, the flock drifted back towards us, and we all got to see it fairly close in sunlight.
We had only an hour to bird on the final morning of the tour. Nothing new was added to the trip list, but we got to see the Great Black-backed one more time before returning to the airport. We finished with 19 species, one fewer than last year, but this tour is all about quality, not quantity. Ross’s Gulls, an adult Ivory Gull, Spectacled Eider: can’t complain about that.
